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What is Asiaticoside?

Centella isolate

Asiaticoside is one of the compounds isolated from centella asiatica. Unlike the whole extract it is a single defined substance, so a label naming it is pointing at a specific raw material rather than a plant mixture. A label carrying it almost always carries asiatic acid and madecassic acid too, and brands often advertise the three under one complex name.

What can you expect from it?

  • Lip lines look softer.

    8 weeks of use

What won't it do?

Claims you often see, and what is actually true.

  • It isn't shown to build collagen in your skin.

    Asiaticoside builds collagen in your skin

  • A plain cream doesn't get the carrier results.

    Asiaticoside in a cream works

  • It isn't shown to hydrate, protect from UV or reverse aging on its own.

    Asiaticoside hydrates skin, protects against UV, and reverses aging

  • It isn't proven to be what makes centella work.

    Asiaticoside is the active that makes centella work

  • Calming skin isn't shown.

    Asiaticoside is anti-inflammatory or calms skin

How much, and for how long?

How much to put in a product isn't known yet.

Lip lines change with 8 weeks of use, eye wrinkles with 12. Shorter use hasn't been shown to work.

Which products feature it?

178 of the 2320 products we've checked feature this as a key ingredient. Products that disclose a concentration or list it near the top of the ingredient list come first.

Showing 1 to 12.

  • It's made for better hydration and calmer skin.

    Key: Asiaticoside (#7 on the ingredient list), Houttuynia Cordata Water 92%, Panthenol

    6 claims, summarized
    Only partly backed:
    better hydration · calmer skin
    See each claim

    claims, checked

    • SIDMOOL HOUTTUYNIA CORDATA CICA ESSENTIALbacked by evidence
    • 92% houttuynia water rich in quercitrinpartly backed
    • Hydrating cica soothing care for sensitive and delicate skinpartly backed
    • A cosmetic containing 20 years of history and deep love for houttuyniano supporting source found
    • Even for inner-dry, oily, combination, and teenage skin, comfortable feel!no supporting source found
    • It is a natural functional derma cosmetic to solve skin concerns.no supporting source found
  • It's made for better hydration and calmer skin.

    Key: Asiaticoside (#9 on the ingredient list), Panthenol, Centella Asiatica Extract

    16 claims, summarized
    You can expect:
    better hydration
    Only partly backed:
    calmer skin
    Don't count on:
    firmer skin · better barrier support · less visible dark spots · softer-looking fine lines
    See each claim

    claims, checked

    • Replenishes hydrationbacked by evidence
    • Calming Care: Soothes and comforts sensitive skin with 5D Cica Complexplausible, not tested
    • A gentle yet effective blend of five types of Cica ingredients helps soothe visible redness and support sensitive skin.plausible, not tested
    • Soothing Sheet Mask for Irritated Skinplausible, not tested
    • Soothes and comforts sensitive, stressed skin with five types of Cica ingredientsplausible, not tested
    • Daily soothing mask provides moisture and soothes with 5 types of centella asiatica extract ingredients. Soothes temporarily redness and red spots.partly backed
    • Gentle Formula: Suitable even for sensitive skinpartly backed
    • The human repeat insult patch test(Non-irritant)(1)partly backed
    • Delivers moisture, helps retain hydration, and soothes the skinpartly backed
    • Dense Sheet: A firm, essence-soaked sheet adheres closely to keep skin hydrated and supple all dayoverstated
    • 60.01% improved soothing of temporary skin redness damaged by external stimulation (infrared)(2)overstated
    • 38.94% improved skin barrier of temporary skin redness damaged by external stimulation (infrared)(3)overstated
    • High Adherence: Made with soft, lightweight TENCEL-blend fabric that hugs the skin seamlesslyno supporting source found
    • A functional cosmetic under the Cosmetics Act (triple functionality: UV protection, wrinkle improvement, whitening) has passed review (or reporting).contradicted by sources
    • Formulated with Torriden’s patented T-Percent™ Calming Complex together with T-TECA, a micro-sized complex smaller than pores, it delivers calming care without stickiness or heaviness.nothing specific to check
    • 5D Cica Complex for Calm, Comforted Skinnothing specific to check
  • It's made for clearer-looking, calmer skin.

    Key: Asiaticoside (#9 on the ingredient list), Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Asiatic Acid

    23 claims, summarized
    You can expect:
    clearer-looking skin
    Only partly backed:
    calmer skin (amount unknown)
    Tests passed:
    non-comedogenic
    See each claim

    claims, checked

    • *Trouble such as sensitivity, sebum, excess oil, dryness, etc.backed by evidence
    • Step 1. Moist environment creation. Hydrocolloid patch quickly absorbs secretions and creates a moist environment, protecting the skin from external pollution.backed by evidence
    • *Limited to raw material characteristics.backed by evidence
    • 2 type size. Highly versatile 2 sizes. Composed of 10mm and 12mm sizes, use according to the size of the concerned area.backed by evidence
    • *10mm: For small spots *12mm: For large spots (curved areas like chin and mouth area, or areas of greater concern).backed by evidence
    • Functional: -backed by evidence
    • Q. How long should it be attached? If the patch swells white and is no longer easy to attach, replace it, or replace it after a certain time (approximately 6-8 hours). It is recommended not to exceed 24 hours.backed by evidence
    • Q. What is the order of use? After cleansing, on a dry state, or after skincare, lightly wipe the area with a cotton swab and attach. Since adhesion may weaken if there is excess moisture or oil, be sure to dry the attachment area before use.backed by evidence
    • Trouble care. From early spots to after-calming! Experience emergency calming spot care.plausible, not tested
    • Slim fit. Invisible seamless cover, Slim fit ultra-adhesive patch!plausible, not tested
    • Beveling method. Applies a beveling method where the edges are 2 times thinner than the center, ensuring close adhesion without lifting.plausible, not tested
    • Matte patch. The matte transparent material ensures spot coverage that is unnoticeable even during makeup and outdoor activities.plausible, not tested
    • Cutting film. Tear along the cutting line for clean use. A cutting line is applied to the center of the back film with the patch, allowing easy removal and hygienic use.plausible, not tested
    • Q. When do you use it? It can be used at every stage, from the initial trouble spot to the after-spot.plausible, not tested
    • Heartleaf x Calming. Blocks external pollution and calms for sure!partly backed
    • Step 2. Soothing trio synergy. Contains heartleaf and TECA, a key ingredient of centella, which help soothe sensitive skin, and tea tree leaf oil that calms irritated skin, to quickly soothe skin spots.partly backed
    • Non Comedogenic. Acne-prone skin suitability test completed.partly backed
    • *Acne-prone skin suitability test (non-comedogenic test) completed / Korea Intertek Testing Services Co., Ltd.partly backed
    • Completed a human efficacy evaluation suitable for acne-prone skin, and since it does not clog pores, even sensitive skin can use it with confidence.overstated
    • Waterproof. The excellent patch fabric doesn't lift even when wet, and maintains for a long time during daily activities like washing and showering, as well as sweat, so it doesn't easily detach even during exercise.overstated
    • Less stress. Safe care for sensitive skin. Experience spot care without worry even on sensitive skin.overstated
    • The moment when Trouble* needs calmingnothing specific to check
    • Emergency spot care, heartleaf spot patchnothing specific to check
  • It's made for calmer skin.

    Key: Asiaticoside (#10 on the ingredient list), Centella Asiatica Extract, Madecassoside

    26 claims, summarized
    Only partly backed:
    less shine · calmer skin (amount unknown) · a smoother skin texture · better hydration (amount unknown)
    Don't count on:
    less visible pores
    See each claim

    claims, checked

    • Contains Torriden carefully blended 5D multi centella asiatica extractbacked by evidence
    • Dense Foam Texture: Thick, cushiony bubbles provide a deep, pore-cleansing experienceplausible, not tested
    • Panthenol Delivers moisture, helps retain hydration, and soothes the skinplausible, not tested
    • Contains panthenol : effective for moisturization and soothingplausible, not tested
    • Gel-type cleanser full of moistureplausible, not tested
    • Soft gel cleanser including 5 types of centella asiatica extract ingredients and LHA helps to remove sebum and dirt inside skin pores.partly backed
    • Skin Calming: Soothes sensitive skin with a gentle gel texture and 5D Cica complexpartly backed
    • Oil Control: Helps balance excess sebum and oil for refreshed, combination skinpartly backed
    • Gentle Formula: Suitable even for sensitive skinpartly backed
    • The human repeat insult patch test(Non-irritant)(1)partly backed
    • 5D Cica Complex Soothes and comforts sensitive, stressed skin with five types of Cica ingredientspartly backed
    • LHA Gently exfoliates dead skin and excess sebum with a mild, low-pH formulapartly backed
    • Torriden Balanceful Cica Cleansing Gel is a light cleanser that clarifies pores and removes excessive sebum.partly backed
    • Formulated with LHA to gently melt excessive sebum and smooth the skin texturepartly backed
    • Contains T-Percent™ Calming Complex , which is Torriden patented ingredient, along with Asiatic Acid, Madecasoside, Asiaticoside, and Madecasic Acidpartly backed
    • Dissolves oil, clears sebum cleanly! Sebum-free cleansing gelpartly backed
    • Soothes skin with 5D Complex Cica Complexpartly backed
    • Pore Purifying: Gently clears pores and sebum buildup without irritationoverstated
    • 68.7% improved immediate sebum cleanliness effect(2)overstated
    • 90.2% improved immediate pore cleanliness effect(3)overstated
    • 100% agreed feels gentle/softness/moistness and soothed on the skin.(4)overstated
    • Low-irritation LHA ingredient for irritation-free sebum careoverstated
    • A gentle yet effective blend of five types of Cica ingredients helps soothe visible redness and support sensitive skin.no supporting source found
    • Formulated with Torriden’s patented T-Percent™ Calming Complex, it provides calming care without stickiness or heaviness.no supporting source found
    • Vegan & Cruelty-freeno supporting source found
    • Designed to keep skin balanced, smooth, and comfortable - day after day.nothing specific to check
  • It's registered in Korea as a functional cosmetic for brightening.

    Key: Asiaticoside (#10 on the ingredient list), Panthenol, Niacinamide

    2 claims, summarized
    You can expect:
    less visible dark spots
    See each claim

    claims, checked

    • Passed functional cosmetics (whitening) review (or reporting) according to the Cosmetics Act.backed by evidence
    • Rapid calming serum that soothes sensitized skin.partly backed
  • It's made for better hydration and better barrier support.

    Key: Asiaticoside (#10 on the ingredient list), Centella Asiatica Leaf Water 74%, Madecassoside

    31 claims, summarized
    You can expect:
    better hydration
    Only partly backed:
    less shine · better barrier support · calmer skin
    Tests passed:
    non-comedogenic
    See each claim

    claims, checked

    • Acne-prone skin suitability test completed!backed by evidence
    • Sidmool Madagascar Sebum Moisture Cream is a product suitable for acne-prone skin and has received clinical testing.backed by evidence
    • Glycerin, propanediol, and betaine applied for rich moisture and hydrationbacked by evidence
    • We have eased concerns about synthetic fragrances and tar colorants.backed by evidence
    • Helps manage weakened skin barrier while controlling sebumplausible, not tested
    • Catching the oil that makes skin shiny and filling the dryness of inner-dry skin with moistureplausible, not tested
    • A moisture cream with sebum management ability that is good to use even in tropical Madagascarplausible, not tested
    • Moisture cream for problematic, inner-dry oily skinplausible, not tested
    • Excellent feel that is good to use even in summerplausible, not tested
    • Through Centella Asiatica native to Madagascar, it helps manage the skin more healthily.plausible, not tested
    • Helps with the care of problematic skin, oily skin, and the skin barrier.plausible, not tested
    • Slightly viscous and soft feelplausible, not tested
    • The scent of the raw material itself is felt.plausible, not tested
    • Jelly-like, milky, translucent formulation colorplausible, not tested
    • Absorbs cleanly and maintains moisture after use, oily skin may become matte.plausible, not tested
    • Applies softly and smoothlyplausible, not tested
    • Fine granular ingredients are added for sebum absorption, so a mild irritation may be felt depending on the skin when using the product.plausible, not tested
    • A moisture cream that is even better for oily skinplausible, not tested
    • Repair with 74% Centella Asiatica leaf waterpartly backed
    • Sebum-catching moisture cream containing Centella Asiaticapartly backed
    • Centella Asiatica, the key ingredient of Centella, high-purity powder raw material repairpartly backed
    • Certified non-comedogenic!partly backed
    • Silica applied to control oil that makes the skin shinypartly backed
    • Allantoin applied to help soothe and manage the weakened skin barrierpartly backed
    • A moisture cream suitable even for sensitive, problematic skinpartly backed
    • Skin irritation test completedno supporting source found
    • Weakly acidic product with pH approximately 5.7no supporting source found
    • Pregnant women, nursing mothersno supporting source found
    • Animal-freeno supporting source found
    • Can be used on sensitive skinno supporting source found
    • Repair + Waterfull + Sebum Controlnothing specific to check
  • It's registered in Korea as a functional cosmetic for brightening and wrinkle improvement.

    Key: Asiaticoside (#10 on the ingredient list), Panthenol, Niacinamide

    4 claims, summarized
    You can expect:
    less visible dark spots · softer-looking fine lines
    See each claim

    claims, checked

    • Dual functional cosmetic for whitening & wrinkle improvementbacked by evidence
    • Whitening improvement (functional) 1 itembacked by evidence
    • Expiry date or period after opening: marked separately / within 12 months after openingbacked by evidence
    • Recommended ingredients, skin conditioning, 25 itemsnothing specific to check

Are the claims about it backed up?

We checked each claim that features this ingredient. Open the list below to see the result for each one.

See the results by claim
ResultClaims
backed by evidence2 of 10
plausible, not tested2 of 10
partly backed4 of 10
overstated1 of 10
nothing specific to check1 of 10

These are counts of claims, not products. One product can name the same ingredient in several claims, and we checked each one on its own.

Sources

We summarized the published studies and public records listed below, each with its DOI or PubMed number. Findings about treating medical conditions are outside what a cosmetics page covers, so we left them out.

What can you expect from it?

  • Lip lines look softer.

    On people, an asiaticoside lipstick worn for 8 weeks left lip lines less marked, and this is the one human result that names asiaticoside itself rather than the plant extract.

    A review pooling 5 blinded comparison studies in 172 women, with the eye area arms running 12 weeks and the lip arm 8 weeks.

    A systematic review and network meta analysis of 5 double blinded randomised controlled trials in 172 Asian females includes asiaticoside specifically.

What won't it do?

  • It isn't shown to build collagen in your skin.

    No study here measured collagen in human skin after asiaticoside was applied; the collagen figures come from cells in dishes, and the one result from a living body came with a particular carrier attached.

    Cell cultures on one side, and on the other a delivery study whose living body result only appeared with its carrier.

    The collagen evidence is in vitro on cultured human dermal fibroblasts at 30 microg/ml and in a cell signaling study.

    Sources: 2, 3

  • A plain cream doesn't get the carrier results.

    In both permeation tests the ordinary cream or plain solution was the low scoring side, so a product that only lists asiaticoside cannot borrow the figures the carrier versions produced.

    Two laboratory permeation comparisons in which the plain cream and the plain solution were the reference arms.

    Directly undercut by the comparator arms of the penetration studies.

    A commercial asiaticoside cream was the low performing reference against nanoemulsions on both cumulative permeation and skin deposition, and free asiaticoside solution was outperformed 10 fold by ultradeformable vesicles.

    Sources: 4, 5

  • It isn't shown to hydrate, protect from UV or reverse aging on its own.

    That list comes from a single review sentence that talks about asiaticoside and a sister compound together, and no study here tested asiaticoside alone for water content or sun protection.

    One sentence in a review rather than a study, and it never separates the two compounds.

    The sentence does not separate the two compounds and no primary study in this corpus tests asiaticoside alone for hydration or UV protection.

  • It isn't proven to be what makes centella work.

    Nobody here separated asiaticoside out of the whole extract and measured what it alone contributes, so crediting the extract's results to it is unevidenced in either direction.

    No study isolates the one compound inside the extract; the extract study that credits it does so by citing earlier papers rather than by testing.

    No source in this corpus isolates asiaticoside's contribution within a whole extract.

  • Calming skin isn't shown.

    The calming findings either lump asiaticoside together with a sister compound or come from work on the nervous system, so neither is a result for asiaticoside on skin.

    A review that names the two compounds together, and a review of what the compound does inside the body.

    The anti-inflammatory activity in this corpus is attributed to the asiaticoside and madecassoside pair together or is reported as anti neural inflammation in a systemic pharmacology review.

    Sources: 6, 7

Lab and related-material results

  • In lab cells it helps build collagen.

    In dishes outside skin, asiaticoside made human skin cells build more collagen, and two separate studies agree on it.

    Two laboratory studies on cultured human skin cells, not a test on skin.

    Two independent in vitro studies with a stated mechanism agree that asiaticoside induces type I collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

    Sources: 2, 3

  • In a carrier, about 6 to 10 times more gets through skin layers in lab tests.

    How it is carried decides how much reaches skin: the carrier versions let roughly 6 to 10 times more through than a plain solution or a cream already on sale.

    Two laboratory comparisons that measured how much passed through skin layers, one against a plain solution and one against a cream already on sale.

    Ultradeformable vesicles produced a 10 fold permeation increase over free asiaticoside solution and nanoemulsions produced 6.57 times the cumulative permeation and 5.93 times the skin deposition of a commercial cream.

    Sources: 4, 5

Citations

  1. 1
    Kongkaew C, Meesomperm P, Scholfield CN, Chaiwiang N, Waranuch N. Efficacy and Safety of Centella Asiatica (L.) Urb. on Wrinkles: A Systematic Review of Published Data and Network Meta-Analysis. J Cosmet Sci. 2020;71(6):439-454.PMID 33413787
  2. 2
    Lu L, Ying K, Wei S, Fang Y, Liu Y, Lin H, Ma L, Mao Y. Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts. Int J Dermatol. 2004;43(11):801-807.DOI 10.1111/j.1365-4632.2004.02047.xPMID 15533060
  3. 3
    Lee J, Jung E, Kim Y, Park J, Park J, Hong S, Kim J, Hyun C, Kim YS, Park D. Asiaticoside induces human collagen I synthesis through TGFbeta receptor I kinase (TbetaRI kinase)-independent Smad signaling. Planta Med. 2006;72(4):324-328.DOI 10.1055/s-2005-916227PMID 16557473
  4. 4
    Paolino D, Cosco D, Cilurzo F, Trapasso E, Morittu VM, Celia C, Fresta M. Improved in vitro and in vivo collagen biosynthesis by asiaticoside-loaded ultradeformable vesicles. J Control Release. 2012;162(1):143-151.DOI 10.1016/j.jconrel.2012.05.050PMID 22698941
  5. 5
    Peng Q, Xie WL, Chen JY, Jiang T, Zhang GQ, Xu ZW, Zhang JN, Zhang L. Transdermal characteristics and mechanism of asiaticoside nanoemulsions and asiaticoside nanoemulsions-based gels. Zhongguo Zhong Yao Za Zhi. 2018;43(9):1857-1863.DOI 10.19540/j.cnki.cjcmm.2018.0062PMID 29902897
  6. 6
    He Z, Hu Y, Niu Z, Zhong K, Liu T, Yang M, Ji L, Hu W. A review of pharmacokinetic and pharmacological properties of asiaticoside, a major active constituent of Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. J Ethnopharmacol. 2023;302(Pt A):115865.DOI 10.1016/j.jep.2022.115865PMID 36306932
  7. 7
    Bandopadhyay S, Mandal S, Ghorai M, Jha NK, Kumar M, Radha, Ghosh A, Prockow J, Perez de la Lastra JM, Dey A. Therapeutic properties and pharmacological activities of asiaticoside and madecassoside: A review. J Cell Mol Med. 2023;27(5):593-608.DOI 10.1111/jcmm.17635PMID 36756687

What each point on this page rests on, with full citations.