PibooAsk Piboo
My shelf

What is Asiatic acid?

Centella isolate

Asiatic acid is another of the compounds isolated from centella asiatica. It is a triterpene and dissolves poorly in water, so a formula carrying it needs a solvent or a solubiliser to keep it in the mix. It goes in at small amounts and sits low on an ingredient list, usually next to the other centella isolates.

What can you expect from it?

Not shown on human skin yet.

What won't it do?

Claims you often see, and what is actually true.

  • It isn't shown to firm skin.

    Asiatic acid firms skin or builds collagen in humans

  • It isn't a stronger form of asiaticoside.

    Asiatic acid is the stronger or purer form of asiaticoside

  • It doesn't absorb well on its own.

    Asiatic acid absorbs well into skin

  • Don't count on it to repair sun aging.

    Results for asiatic acid derivatives belong to asiatic acid

  • Calming skin isn't shown.

    Asiatic acid is anti-inflammatory or soothes skin

Which products feature it?

97 of the 2320 products we've checked feature this as a key ingredient. Products that disclose a concentration or list it near the top of the ingredient list come first.

Showing 1 to 12.

  • It's made for better hydration and calmer skin.

    Key: Asiatic Acid (#8 on the ingredient list), Houttuynia Cordata Water 92%, Panthenol

    6 claims, summarized
    Only partly backed:
    better hydration · calmer skin
    See each claim

    claims, checked

    • SIDMOOL HOUTTUYNIA CORDATA CICA ESSENTIALbacked by evidence
    • 92% houttuynia water rich in quercitrinpartly backed
    • Hydrating cica soothing care for sensitive and delicate skinpartly backed
    • A cosmetic containing 20 years of history and deep love for houttuyniano supporting source found
    • Even for inner-dry, oily, combination, and teenage skin, comfortable feel!no supporting source found
    • It is a natural functional derma cosmetic to solve skin concerns.no supporting source found
  • It's made for better hydration and calmer skin.

    Key: Asiatic Acid (#10 on the ingredient list), Panthenol, Asiaticoside

    16 claims, summarized
    You can expect:
    better hydration
    Only partly backed:
    calmer skin
    Don't count on:
    firmer skin · better barrier support · less visible dark spots · softer-looking fine lines
    See each claim

    claims, checked

    • Replenishes hydrationbacked by evidence
    • Calming Care: Soothes and comforts sensitive skin with 5D Cica Complexplausible, not tested
    • A gentle yet effective blend of five types of Cica ingredients helps soothe visible redness and support sensitive skin.plausible, not tested
    • Soothing Sheet Mask for Irritated Skinplausible, not tested
    • Soothes and comforts sensitive, stressed skin with five types of Cica ingredientsplausible, not tested
    • Daily soothing mask provides moisture and soothes with 5 types of centella asiatica extract ingredients. Soothes temporarily redness and red spots.partly backed
    • Gentle Formula: Suitable even for sensitive skinpartly backed
    • The human repeat insult patch test(Non-irritant)(1)partly backed
    • Delivers moisture, helps retain hydration, and soothes the skinpartly backed
    • Dense Sheet: A firm, essence-soaked sheet adheres closely to keep skin hydrated and supple all dayoverstated
    • 60.01% improved soothing of temporary skin redness damaged by external stimulation (infrared)(2)overstated
    • 38.94% improved skin barrier of temporary skin redness damaged by external stimulation (infrared)(3)overstated
    • High Adherence: Made with soft, lightweight TENCEL-blend fabric that hugs the skin seamlesslyno supporting source found
    • A functional cosmetic under the Cosmetics Act (triple functionality: UV protection, wrinkle improvement, whitening) has passed review (or reporting).contradicted by sources
    • Formulated with Torriden’s patented T-Percent™ Calming Complex together with T-TECA, a micro-sized complex smaller than pores, it delivers calming care without stickiness or heaviness.nothing specific to check
    • 5D Cica Complex for Calm, Comforted Skinnothing specific to check
  • It's made for a smoother skin texture and calmer skin.

    Key: Asiatic Acid (#10 on the ingredient list), Gluconolactone, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid

    17 claims, summarized
    Only partly backed:
    calmer skin · a smoother skin texture · better hydration
    See each claim

    claims, checked

    • Gentle Daily Exfoliation for Smooth, Balanced Skinplausible, not tested
    • Embossed Pad: Textured pad with a 3D embossed surface that thoroughly and gently cleanses problem areas for smoother skin with daily useplausible, not tested
    • Delivers moisture, helps retain hydration, and soothes the skinplausible, not tested
    • it provides calming care without stickiness or heaviness.plausible, not tested
    • Daily toner pad formulated with 5 types of centella asiatica extract ingredients and LHA & PHA calms and provides smoothness for sensitive skin.partly backed
    • Daily Exfoliation: Gently melts away excess sebum and dead skin cells to refine rough texturepartly backed
    • Gentle Formula: Mild and non-irritating, even for sensitive skinpartly backed
    • The human repeat insult patch test(Non-irritant)(1)partly backed
    • 11.2% improved skin texture(roughness)(2)partly backed
    • 100% gave positive answers on feeling like my rough skin texture has become smooth and soft(5)partly backed
    • Soothes and comforts sensitive, stressed skin with five types of Cica ingredientspartly backed
    • Gently exfoliates dead skin and excess sebum with a mild, low-pH formulapartly backed
    • Gently exfoliates to remove old dead skin cells and refine texturepartly backed
    • 84.3% improved skin exfoliation(3)overstated
    • 50.8% improved in skin sebum(4)overstated
    • A gentle yet effective blend of five types of Cica ingredients helps soothe visible redness and support sensitive skin.overstated
    • Designed to keep skin balanced, smooth, and comfortablenothing specific to check
  • It's made for clearer-looking, calmer skin.

    Key: Asiatic Acid (#10 on the ingredient list), Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Asiaticoside

    23 claims, summarized
    You can expect:
    clearer-looking skin
    Only partly backed:
    calmer skin (amount unknown)
    Tests passed:
    non-comedogenic
    See each claim

    claims, checked

    • *Trouble such as sensitivity, sebum, excess oil, dryness, etc.backed by evidence
    • Step 1. Moist environment creation. Hydrocolloid patch quickly absorbs secretions and creates a moist environment, protecting the skin from external pollution.backed by evidence
    • *Limited to raw material characteristics.backed by evidence
    • 2 type size. Highly versatile 2 sizes. Composed of 10mm and 12mm sizes, use according to the size of the concerned area.backed by evidence
    • *10mm: For small spots *12mm: For large spots (curved areas like chin and mouth area, or areas of greater concern).backed by evidence
    • Functional: -backed by evidence
    • Q. How long should it be attached? If the patch swells white and is no longer easy to attach, replace it, or replace it after a certain time (approximately 6-8 hours). It is recommended not to exceed 24 hours.backed by evidence
    • Q. What is the order of use? After cleansing, on a dry state, or after skincare, lightly wipe the area with a cotton swab and attach. Since adhesion may weaken if there is excess moisture or oil, be sure to dry the attachment area before use.backed by evidence
    • Trouble care. From early spots to after-calming! Experience emergency calming spot care.plausible, not tested
    • Slim fit. Invisible seamless cover, Slim fit ultra-adhesive patch!plausible, not tested
    • Beveling method. Applies a beveling method where the edges are 2 times thinner than the center, ensuring close adhesion without lifting.plausible, not tested
    • Matte patch. The matte transparent material ensures spot coverage that is unnoticeable even during makeup and outdoor activities.plausible, not tested
    • Cutting film. Tear along the cutting line for clean use. A cutting line is applied to the center of the back film with the patch, allowing easy removal and hygienic use.plausible, not tested
    • Q. When do you use it? It can be used at every stage, from the initial trouble spot to the after-spot.plausible, not tested
    • Heartleaf x Calming. Blocks external pollution and calms for sure!partly backed
    • Step 2. Soothing trio synergy. Contains heartleaf and TECA, a key ingredient of centella, which help soothe sensitive skin, and tea tree leaf oil that calms irritated skin, to quickly soothe skin spots.partly backed
    • Non Comedogenic. Acne-prone skin suitability test completed.partly backed
    • *Acne-prone skin suitability test (non-comedogenic test) completed / Korea Intertek Testing Services Co., Ltd.partly backed
    • Completed a human efficacy evaluation suitable for acne-prone skin, and since it does not clog pores, even sensitive skin can use it with confidence.overstated
    • Waterproof. The excellent patch fabric doesn't lift even when wet, and maintains for a long time during daily activities like washing and showering, as well as sweat, so it doesn't easily detach even during exercise.overstated
    • Less stress. Safe care for sensitive skin. Experience spot care without worry even on sensitive skin.overstated
    • The moment when Trouble* needs calmingnothing specific to check
    • Emergency spot care, heartleaf spot patchnothing specific to check
  • It's made for calmer skin.

    Key: Asiatic Acid (#11 on the ingredient list), Centella Asiatica Extract, Madecassoside

    26 claims, summarized
    Only partly backed:
    less shine · calmer skin (amount unknown) · a smoother skin texture · better hydration (amount unknown)
    Don't count on:
    less visible pores
    See each claim

    claims, checked

    • Contains Torriden carefully blended 5D multi centella asiatica extractbacked by evidence
    • Dense Foam Texture: Thick, cushiony bubbles provide a deep, pore-cleansing experienceplausible, not tested
    • Panthenol Delivers moisture, helps retain hydration, and soothes the skinplausible, not tested
    • Contains panthenol : effective for moisturization and soothingplausible, not tested
    • Gel-type cleanser full of moistureplausible, not tested
    • Soft gel cleanser including 5 types of centella asiatica extract ingredients and LHA helps to remove sebum and dirt inside skin pores.partly backed
    • Skin Calming: Soothes sensitive skin with a gentle gel texture and 5D Cica complexpartly backed
    • Oil Control: Helps balance excess sebum and oil for refreshed, combination skinpartly backed
    • Gentle Formula: Suitable even for sensitive skinpartly backed
    • The human repeat insult patch test(Non-irritant)(1)partly backed
    • 5D Cica Complex Soothes and comforts sensitive, stressed skin with five types of Cica ingredientspartly backed
    • LHA Gently exfoliates dead skin and excess sebum with a mild, low-pH formulapartly backed
    • Torriden Balanceful Cica Cleansing Gel is a light cleanser that clarifies pores and removes excessive sebum.partly backed
    • Formulated with LHA to gently melt excessive sebum and smooth the skin texturepartly backed
    • Contains T-Percent™ Calming Complex , which is Torriden patented ingredient, along with Asiatic Acid, Madecasoside, Asiaticoside, and Madecasic Acidpartly backed
    • Dissolves oil, clears sebum cleanly! Sebum-free cleansing gelpartly backed
    • Soothes skin with 5D Complex Cica Complexpartly backed
    • Pore Purifying: Gently clears pores and sebum buildup without irritationoverstated
    • 68.7% improved immediate sebum cleanliness effect(2)overstated
    • 90.2% improved immediate pore cleanliness effect(3)overstated
    • 100% agreed feels gentle/softness/moistness and soothed on the skin.(4)overstated
    • Low-irritation LHA ingredient for irritation-free sebum careoverstated
    • A gentle yet effective blend of five types of Cica ingredients helps soothe visible redness and support sensitive skin.no supporting source found
    • Formulated with Torriden’s patented T-Percent™ Calming Complex, it provides calming care without stickiness or heaviness.no supporting source found
    • Vegan & Cruelty-freeno supporting source found
    • Designed to keep skin balanced, smooth, and comfortable - day after day.nothing specific to check
  • It's registered in Korea as a functional cosmetic for brightening.

    Key: Asiatic Acid (#11 on the ingredient list), Panthenol, Asiaticoside

    2 claims, summarized
    You can expect:
    less visible dark spots
    See each claim

    claims, checked

    • Passed functional cosmetics (whitening) review (or reporting) according to the Cosmetics Act.backed by evidence
    • Rapid calming serum that soothes sensitized skin.partly backed
  • It's made for clearer-looking, calmer skin.

    Key: Asiatic Acid (#11 on the ingredient list), Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside

    41 claims, summarized
    You can expect:
    clearer-looking skin
    Only partly backed:
    calmer skin (amount unknown) · a brighter skin tone
    Tests passed:
    hypoallergenic · skin irritation
    See each claim

    claims, checked

    • Contains TECA, tea tree leaf oil, Centella Asiatica Extractbacked by evidence
    • A mixed patch with 2 sizes to choose and stick according to spot size!backed by evidence
    • Sticks perfectly to my skinplausible, not tested
    • When you stick it right! on troubled skin areas, it helps soothe spotsplausible, not tested
    • Sticks perfectly to my skin-! A slim matte patch that doesn't showplausible, not tested
    • A semi-transparent matte patch in skin tone, so it doesn't show on bare face or with makeupplausible, not tested
    • #CoolTone #WarmTone #Regardlessplausible, not tested
    • Half-cut method with cut lines in the film makes it easy to tear off and use, with no worry about foldingplausible, not tested
    • Before squeezing, for initial spot soothing carepartly backed
    • Soothing effect human application test completedpartly backed
    • Acne use suitability human application test completedpartly backed
    • Initial spot soothing carepartly backed
    • Dongkuk Pharmaceutical's key ingredient TECApartly backed
    • Helps soothe skinpartly backed
    • Acne-prone skin suitability cosmetic test completedpartly backed
    • Low irritation test completedpartly backed
    • Contains Soothing Solumix formula of TECA, Centella Asiatica Extract, and tea tree leaf oilpartly backed
    • Key ingredient of Soothing Solumix™, Dongkuk Pharmaceutical TECApartly backed
    • Oil improvement human application test completedpartly backed
    • 1. Helps improve skin oil amount and sebum amountpartly backed
    • About 33% improvement effectpartly backed
    • 2. Suitable for use on acne-prone skinpartly backed
    • Helps soothe skin!partly backed
    • Therefore, the test product “Madeca Medi Patch Arc Q” is judged to be - a product that helps immediate (temporary) soothing of skin irritation after physical stimulation with 1 use. - a product that helps soothe skin with 2 weeks of use.partly backed
    • Skin low irritation test completedpartly backed
    • Skin safety human application test completedpartly backed
    • 0.00 low irritationpartly backed
    • Madeca Medi Patch Arc Q is judged to be non-(no)-irritating. All human application test subjects showed no skin adverse reactions during the test period.partly backed
    • Try it with confidence! Satisfaction 100%partly backed
    • Madeca Medi Patch Arc Q confirmed improvement effects through human application tests.partly backed
    • Patch thickness satisfaction 100%partly backed
    • Longevity (retention) satisfaction 100%partly backed
    • Spot coverage satisfaction 100%partly backed
    • Madeca Medi Patch Arc Q is a hydrocolloid patch that contains Soothing Solumix ingredients TECA, Centella Asiatica Extract, and tea tree leaf oil, helps improve skin oil, and soothes and cares for troubled skin areas.partly backed
    • Madeca Medi Patch Arc Q is suitable for use on acne-prone skin and is a product with 0.00 skin irritation, low irritation. (Test completed)partly backed
    • Even sensitive skin can use it with confidenceoverstated
    • About 33% improvement effectno supporting source found
    • About 41% improvement effectno supporting source found
    • Fast soothing effect 100%no supporting source found
    • Product use 100%no supporting source found
    • Adhesion completely perfect!no supporting source found
  • It's made for calmer skin and better barrier support.

    Key: Asiatic Acid (#13 on the ingredient list), Centella Asiatica Leaf Water 80%, Madecassoside

    10 claims, summarized
    Only partly backed:
    calmer skin · better barrier support
    See each claim

    claims, checked

    • Silicone oil was not used.backed by evidence
    • The white color of raw ingredients that used no synthetic colorantsbacked by evidence
    • A moisturizing lotion with little oiliness!plausible, not tested
    • Highly concentrated! High content! Centella asiatica leaf water 80%partly backed
    • A barrier moisturizing lotion made with only skin health in mindpartly backed
    • Helps soothe troubled skin and care for the barrierpartly backed
    • pH approx. 6.3, weakly acidic productpartly backed
    • No synthetic fragrance is used, so it has the inherent scent of the raw ingredients.partly backed
    • Skin irritation test completedno supporting source found
    • Animal-derived freeno supporting source found

Are the claims about it backed up?

We checked each claim that features this ingredient. Open the list below to see the result for each one.

See the results by claim
ResultClaims
backed by evidence2 of 8
plausible, not tested2 of 8
partly backed2 of 8
no supporting source found1 of 8
nothing specific to check1 of 8

These are counts of claims, not products. One product can name the same ingredient in several claims, and we checked each one on its own.

Sources

We summarized the published studies and public records listed below, each with its DOI or PubMed number. Findings about treating medical conditions are outside what a cosmetics page covers, so we left them out.

What won't it do?

  • It isn't shown to firm skin.

    The collagen results all come from cells in dishes, and the human wrinkle studies in this field tested the plant extract and a different compound, not asiatic acid.

    Cell cultures on one side, and on the other a review of human wrinkle studies that does not list asiatic acid among what was applied.

    The collagen evidence is fibroblast culture and keratinocyte culture under a glycation challenge.

    Sources: 1, 3

  • It isn't a stronger form of asiaticoside.

    Put side by side in the same test, both forms raised collagen by about the same amount, so neither one is the stronger form.

    The one laboratory test that ran both forms in the same experiment on cultured human skin cells.

    Contradicted by the one head to head assay.

    Tested separately, the individual components stimulated collagen I synthesis to a similar extent, and the source concludes that "the sugar moiety of the molecule does not seem to be necessary" for this activity.

    Sources: 1

  • It doesn't absorb well on its own.

    Asiatic acid dissolves poorly, and in its own permeation test the plain version was a weak arm while the wrapped version let several times more through.

    The same artificial sheet test, comparing a plain gel and a plain solution against a gel with tiny carriers in it.

    Contradicted by the reason the delivery literature exists.

    Low bioavailability due to poor solubility is stated as the limit on practical application, and a plain hydroethanolic asiatic acid solution in gel achieved 1.18% penetration against 8.53% for the transfersomal gel in the same experiment.

    Sources: 2, 4

  • Don't count on it to repair sun aging.

    The photoaging result belongs to a different, easier to dissolve version of the compound and was measured in mouse skin, so it does not carry over.

    An animal study on a salt form of asiatic acid, which was chosen precisely because plain asiatic acid dissolves too poorly.

    The anti photoaging result frequently associated with asiatic acid was generated with AAGS, asiatic acid compounded with glucosamine, introduced explicitly as a highly bioavailable form because plain asiatic acid's solubility is limiting.

    Sources: 4

  • Calming skin isn't shown.

    The calming result came from an animal study where the amount was set by body weight, which is not a dose you put on skin, so it says nothing about what a cosmetic does.

    An animal study alongside cell culture work, with no amount applied to skin stated anywhere in it.

    The retrieved abstract does not state the route, but mg/kg body weight dosing is a whole animal exposure and not a defined topical dose.

Lab and related-material results

  • In lab cells it boosts collagen, more so with vitamin C.

    In dishes outside skin, asiatic acid made human skin cells put out more collagen, and more again when vitamin C was in the dish with it.

    A laboratory test on cultured human skin cells, not on anyone's skin.

    Demonstrated directly and comparatively.

    Ascorbic acid raised the level of collagen I secretion for each component, so the assay condition matters.

    Sources: 1

  • In lab cells it keeps collagen from dropping under stress.

    Outside skin, when cells were put under sugar related stress, asiatic acid kept their collagen from dropping and held back the enzymes that break collagen apart.

    Cultured cells from the outer skin layer, deliberately stressed in a dish rather than tested on skin.

    Asiatic acid pretreatment maintained collagen I expression and reduced three MMPs under an AGE challenge.

    Sources: 3

  • Packed in a carrier gel, several times more gets through in lab tests.

    How it is packaged changed how much got through: a gel that wrapped asiatic acid in tiny carriers let several times more pass than plain gels or a plain solution did.

    The passing through was measured on an artificial sheet standing in for skin, not on skin itself.

    Transfersomal gels outperformed both non transfersomal gels and a hydroethanolic solution on percentage penetration and flux.

    Sources: 2

Citations

  1. 1
    Bonte F, Dumas M, Chaudagne C, Meybeck A. Influence of asiatic acid, madecassic acid, and asiaticoside on human collagen I synthesis. Planta Med. 1994;60(2):133-135.DOI 10.1055/s-2006-959434PMID 8202564
  2. 2
    Opatha SAT, Titapiwatanakun V, Boonpisutiinant K, Chutoprapat R. Preparation, Characterization and Permeation Study of Topical Gel Loaded with Transfersomes Containing Asiatic Acid. Molecules. 2022;27(15):4865.DOI 10.3390/molecules27154865PMID 35956816
  3. 3
    Wang ZH. Anti-glycative effects of asiatic acid in human keratinocyte cells. Biomedicine (Taipei). 2014;4(3):19.DOI 10.7603/s40681-014-0019-9PMID 25520932
  4. 4
    Huang J, Tu T, Wang W, Zhou G, Zhang W, Wu X, Liu W. Asiatic Acid Glucosamine Salt Alleviates Ultraviolet B-induced Photoaging of Human Dermal Fibroblasts and Nude Mouse Skin. Photochem Photobiol. 2020;96(1):124-138.DOI 10.1111/php.13160PMID 31483870
  5. 5
    Moon GH, Lee Y, Kim EK, Chung KH, Lee KJ, An JH. Immunomodulatory and Anti-inflammatory Effects of Asiatic Acid in a DNCB-Induced Atopic Dermatitis Animal Model. Nutrients. 2021;13(7):2448.DOI 10.3390/nu13072448PMID 34371956

What each point on this page rests on, with full citations.